“The
beckoning counts, and not the clicking latch behind
you; and all through life the actual moment of emancipation
still holds that delight of the world coming to meet
you like a wave.” Freya Stark,
Traveller’s Prelude (1950)
Seventeen
years ago my husband, then on active duty with the United
States Air Force, received orders for reassignment to
the 81st Tactical Fighter Wing at RAF Bentwaters in
Suffolk County, England. Ten
months later the three of us, and our dog MiMi, left
San Bernardino, California. We took
a somewhat leisurely trip across the country, visiting
relatives in Arizona, Tennessee and Maryland as we headed
for JFK Airport. One April evening we boarded
Pan Am Flight 103 and began a transatlantic journey
that forever changed my life.
I
remember waking up to a breathtaking
sunrise as we crossed the International Date Line.
Another still vivid recollection was the incredible mix
of people at Heathrow Airport. It took a day or two to
get my bearings but the next four-plus years were
a fantastic grand adventure that combined travel across
the United Kingdom and Western Europe. I informed
my husband before we ever left San Berdoo that I intended
to take advantage of every opportunity to travel and indeed
we did.
We
lived in a small village on the East Coast of England
near the North Sea. We had
a pub, a petrol station, a postal substation and an Anglican
Church that traced its pastors to the
Domesday Book. We could leave Ipswich, about 30 miles
west of where we lived, at 7am and be in Paris by 6pm.
We could board the ferry out of Felixstowe, the largest
container port in the UK, as foot passengers, sail all
night and arrive at Zebrugge, Belgium for a weekend in
Bruges and Brussels. Among my
fondest memories are bicycling with my daughter through
the gardens at the Palace of Versailles
and an unhurried tour of the Louvre on one of our many
trips to Paris.
This
summer I spent three weeks revisiting my beloved England
and touring the Continent with four companions. The trip
brought me full circle for it took 12 years to return.
While in London, a city I love, we visited the
National Portrait Gallery especially to see an exhibit
entitled, Off the Beaten Track, Three Centuries of Women
Travellers. It celebrates the ingenuity, determination,
creativity and boldness of approximately 60 women who
embarked on journeys that took them far from home between
1660 and 1960. Some of these women, such as Gertrude Benham,
hit the road as adventurers. She
left home from sheer loneliness and made at least three
trips around the world, traveling for not less than a
year at a time.
Some
of the women traveled purposely, as companions to their
spouses or other people, some
were scholars, artists, collectors, and writers, like
me. Some were adventurers determined to
break free of stultifying lives and the rigid expectations
of their times. Some were women of color, such
as Sarah Davies, an orphaned African who was a goddaughter
of Queen Victoria, Queen Emma of Hawaii and Vijaya
Lakshmi Pandit, the first woman cabinet member in India.
And like me, all of them
traveled to England and spent time there.
During
our years in England, my family and I traveled extensively.
We visited London and Paris regularly. I traveled to Belgium,
Austria, the Netherlands, France, Monaco, Italy, Switzerland,
Germany, Spain, Scotland, Wales, and places in between,
marveling at the history,
architecture, culture, and enjoying the food and fellowship.
I had the privilege, and pleasure, of visiting, at my
leisure, some of the best-known cities and historical
sites in England and Europe.
I
learned how to live with people whose culture, politics
and expectations were different from mine.
I discovered how little I really knew even though I’d
been studying English and European history and geography
since my junior high school days
I
was bitten by the travel bug. Unlike some of the valiant
women profiled, I waited until I could travel with others.
What I experienced on my return was a profound
mixture of excitement, wonderment, a renewed sense of
belonging and the inspiration to keep writing and traveling.
I saw progress, for we lived in England when the Berlin
Wall came down and when discussions about the European
Union and a common currency were fiercely debated. We
were there when the first Gulf War was waged.
We
were there when Margaret Thatcher was deposed.
I
enjoyed revisiting familiar places once again. Perhaps
the most valuable lessons I learned this time around were
about me, and my relationships with others. I always
have enjoyed traveling. This time I found out
why.
Learn
more about Off the Beaten Track. Go to www.npg.org.uk. |